The 1301 mod2 is incredible and rocking everything you need right out of the box, save a sling.

when I find a firearm that is truly exceptional, I always buy a second, and that’s the case with the 1301 mod2.

 

I have one as well, and unfortunately I’m not as ecstatic.

My major gripe includes the extensive use of plastic. A lot can be upgraded to aluminum, but of course this comes at additional cost. I’ve already converted a lot, but have yet to find a suitable metallic replacement for the rear sight in particular.

My other main gripe is the location of the MLok rails. Way, way too far forward for anyone without four foot arms. My solution is unfortunately even more money spent on an aftermarket forend. (Aridus Industries must love Beretta)

And while not an inherent gripe, just note that she kicks. Hard. Aluminum receivers are what they are I suppose.

On the bright side, it’s still a sexy Italian beast, and I’ve always wanted one.

And lastly, to your original point, this shotgun represents the pinnacle of available options these days 🤷‍♂️

 

And while not an inherent gripe, just note that she kicks. Hard.

I'm surprised to hear that. I fired a single shot Stevens 20 gauge that kicked harder than my 1301.

@Vagreg

My 1301 is a Mod 1.5 and I love mine. Only issue I've had with mine is when I didn't clean it/oil it properly. The bolt would cycle fine and looked closed, but it was unlocked maybe 1/16" - just enough to let the hammer fall but not pop a primer. Re-chambering and smacking the charging handle would close it enough to discharge a round.

Best cleaning advice I've found:

In the context of semi-auto shotguns, the 1301 is the closest one to being Glock-like in it's ability to function despite abject neglect. But it is still a semi-auto shotgun and one should not assume they can fire 10,000 rounds through it without cleaning and not experience problems. It will most definitely manifest problems.

This is especially true if you are shooting the kind of bulk ammo most people are shooting through these guns in classes and training. The quality of ammunition and components have gone downhill significantly post-COVID and especially once the ridiculous adventures in Ukraine kicked off. This means that I'm seeing shotgun ammunition that burns dirtier than ever. It's leaving more unburned powder and generating more carbon deposits inside the gun than we were seeing pre-COVID and pre-Ukraine. Luckily I had the chance to see and disassemble a bunch of 1301's pre and post, and they're coming up nastier now with the same round counts.

In this particular class we had a couple of people who had fired thousands of rounds through the guns without cleaning. (4,000 + from one individual)

Upon taking the 4,000+ round gun apart, huge chunks of carbon came spilling out of the gas block and the trigger group looked like it had just been dug out of the bottom of a potted plant. Plus it was dry as a bone.

If you do an experiment and run, say, a Mossberg 930 and a Beretta 1301 through thousands of rounds with little lubrication on the guns I can guarantee you that the 1301 will run a lot longer than the 930. Or an 11-87. Probably the only gun that's going to come close to matching it is the Benelli M4.

It is an exceptional performer among semi-auto shotguns. But that doesn't mean it will run forever with no cleaning and no lubrication. It is a machine and sooner or later will stop working properly if it is not maintained.

That brings us to the next issue:

Cleaning

Most people seem to think that cleaning the gun centers on punching the bore. That is understandable because that's kind of how it is with pump guns.

With the 1301 punching the bore may be necessary from time to time (I tend to do it once a year or so) but of much greater importance is ensuring that the piston is relatively clean, the gas block is relatively clean, and that the magazine tube is relatively clean. The gun will run with a dirty bore as long as you want...but if the functional components of the action aren't moving properly the gun will stop cycling.

Magazine Tube

The exterior of the magazine tube is the track that the moving components of the gun run on. If you go through cycles of shooting it a lot and putting it away, you deposit a lot of carbon and then let it sit and solidify on the gun. This happens with every cycle. Do this enough and you can bet that eventually enough carbon will deposit that when you try to shoot the gun you'll get function issues and when you try to disassemble the gun you will probably need to beat the barrel off by using a rubber mallet to tap the front sight, breaking up enough of the carbon caking to let the barrel come off the gun.

Thus it would be a good idea to regularly take the barrel off and at least wipe down the magazine tube to ensure the piston can move freely. It doesn't have to be spotless, but it shouldn't be ignored either.

Piston

The piston should be scrubbed down from time to time so it can move properly, with a focus on making sure the knurled ring around the gas piston is able to rotate freely. In the previously posted picture you can see an accumulation of carbon and/or lead that was impeding the free movement of the piston. The inside and outside of the piston needs to be cleaned with some decent solvent and a brass brush or equivalent to keep it in a state where it can function properly. It doesn't have to be spotless or shiny to run properly, but it can't have big globs of lead and carbon all over it and still work right.

Gas Block/Ring

The gas block itself seems to be poorly understood. There are several holes in the gas block:

There are two main gas ports visible like nostrils where the gas comes from the barrel into the gas block. Those need to be unobstructed. If you see carbon or lead buildup there, use a mechanic's pick or something to clean them.

In addition, if you will notice there are a bunch of little ports arranged around the perimeter. Those little holes around the outside edge, just in front of the pocket for the o-ring, should also be clean and open. Often you need a pick of some sort to accomplish this. You will also find that lead and carbon like to deposit right around there, so you may need to use the pick to break off big hunks of crap that will otherwise impede the proper flow of gas. Just make sure that when you poke those holes clear you don't end up poking the o-ring to death or dislodging it without putting it back in the proper position before reassembly.

Thankfully you can be pretty rough with cleaning this, even using a brush on the end of a drill to get after it. Just make sure you're in a well ventilated area wearing good PPE when doing so. You don't want that **** in your eyes. Even with a brush on a drill, some pokage of the ports may be necessary.

Firing Pin Channel

The firing pin channel will cake up with carbon and needs to be cleaned from time to time. You can use a pipe cleaner, some sort of aerosol cleaner, pretty much whatever will work to ensure that the channel the firing pin rides in is clear enough for the firing pin to move as it needs to. This will require disassembling the bolt carrier assembly. I do this when I do a proper full cleaning of the gun.

How often should you do all of this?

Beretta advises cleaning the gun...meaning the functional components I just discussed...every 300 rounds or so. This makes sense as cleaning that frequently helps prevent having a great big cleaning job that takes a long time and will tend to prevent reaching the point where function of the gun is impeded by crud.

I've never cleaned my guns that frequently. But neither would I wait until I've fired 5,000 shells to clean it.

I do partial cleaning and full cleaning on the gun.

Partial cleaning means I take the barrel off, scrub the magazine tube with a brash brush and some solvent (do not use a dremel, for god's sake), do the same scrubbing on the gas piston, and do a light scrub with the brush and some solvent inside the gas block/ring. I will wipe down the bolt/carrier group, apply lubrication, then reassemble. I do this every few range sessions or before a class where I know the gun might end up in the hands of a client who needs a functional shotgun. While I have the gun apart I check fasteners, etc. This is happening about 4 times a year given my firing and teaching schedule.

A full cleaning means I take the gun completely apart, including removing the trigger assembly, and scrub everything down with a solvent and a brass brush. I will clean the firing pin channel. Usually this is the time when I punch the bore using a chuckable cleaning rod, too. This happens about once a year with my firing schedule.

In general I'd say I go through about 5,000 shells a year, with that number being split in half between my 870 and my primary 1301. If you are firing more shells than that in a year, obviously you will need more cleaning events. If you are shooting less, fewer.

If you are shooting a lot of slugs, you are going to want to break the gun down for cleaning and inspection more frequently as slugs tend to deposit far more lead in the gun than shot loads.

If you are shooting crappy ammo...and if you are shooting bulk birdshot and buckshot for practice/training then you are...you will want to have more frequent cleaning events.

I shot mine stock until Beretta came out with the Mod 2 foreend kit. The knurling on the foreend is a lot better than original part. It's been the only mod I made.

I will, however, eventually put on the Magpul Mossberg stock adapter/stock and the new foreend from Aridus (for easier light attachment/manipulations). I like the irons and for the time being will use it as-is. If I eventually find a closed-emitter EO Tech style red dot that fits an RMR footprint that I like, I'll probably make that switch to a RDS.

Justin, over at Swift Silent Deadly had an excellent write up about the 1301 and his modifications: If I Could Only Have Two Guns: The Defensive Shotgun - Swift | Silent | Deadly

 

My sample of one LTT 1301 Mod 2 has been fantastic. It has had zero issues cycling with anything from cheap bulk low-brass 7 1/2 birdshot, Federal Tactical low recoil 00 buck and slugs, to full power Federal buckshot and slugs. Very good patterns at 50 yds with both 8 and 9 pellet 00 buck with the Flight Control wad. I highly suspect the long forcing cone and intrechangeable chokes contribute significantly to the accuracy and low felt recoil. Federal Tactical TruBall slugs make it a very capable rifle out past 50 yds.

Coming from Mossberg 500s, Remington 870Ps, 1100s, and 1187s, it is a very lightweight, low recoiling shotgun. Using a shot timer, follow-up shots are significantly faster. The trigger on the 1301 is really nice for a shotgun. Not sure if that is the case with all Mod 2s or if it is the work done by LTT, but none the less it is a great trigger. I appreciate the 1-piece 7-round magazine tube as there is much less chance of inducing feed malfunctions due to improper assembly than there is compared to the OEM +2 extension I have on my 870P. I did remove the internal plastic magazine spring cap from the magazine tube. The pro lifter makes replentishing the magazine tube easy.

Mine is set up with the Chisel Machining folding stock with a Sig locking knuckle, Magpul K2 grip, and Magpul Zhukov forend with adapter. It also has the Vang Comp side carrier, LTT Labyrinth heat shield, Holosun 508T, and Surefire 640DFT-Pro with a DS07 tailcap and tape switch. The light and tape switch are mounted to the forend and heatshield, not the magazine tube clamp.

Overall, a super fun, accurate, low recoiling shotgun which has had no reliability issues through a couple thousand rounds thus far.

 

Get the pro lifter. Cheap-ish. Super easy install, and total game changer for loading

 

From all the reviews I've watched/read, I don't think you'll find anything better. I sold a few pump shotguns recently to replace with a 1301. Just looking for a deal on one now.

 

It has exactly the same level of capability as the Benelli M4.
And is two pounds lighter

 

Aridus handguard is the best mod I have made, really saves your hand when you roll it on your should for a fast reload as she is a hot girl with the stock handguard, and the mlok slots are good.

thats really all I have done except getting a blue gear custom sling that has a fastex buckle for the buttstock slots

 

Or just buy the Benelli M4 rear sight.

 

I didn't go with the 18" model, I did the 21" Comp model and added an extended tube. I am heavily debating on picking up the 18" model as a second one to run. I am interested in the velcro shell holders, have seen a few videos of how quickly they can be changed out from a vest pocket. That article was a good read, has me wanting to try a dot on mine now.

 

I have a 7.62x51 chest rig and 2 of the Velcro holders will fit in each of the 4 pouches on it, so I bought a bunch. Seems to work out well and since I already has it didn’t need to buy a rig with just a Velcro panel on it. Weights less then full rifle mags and it’s a lot of firepower

i got this over the M4 or clones due to the weight but more importantly the adjustable length of pull. I think it also softer shooting then the M4 or the A300

 

I have one in OD Green, it's the first shotgun I've owned. I really like it. The only things I've replaced are the barrel clamp, charging handle and mag tube cover with aluminum ones from GG&G Tactical. That's just a personal preference thing, the stock parts are fine.