Fit some new parts... need advice on fine tunning and file work

bw210 · Dec 4, 2013

Just finished fitting some new parts in my Spartan. Added a Sprinco recoil reducing guide rod, Cylinder & slide tool steel ignition, lightweight hammer, new springs as well as HDC medium solid trigger, Ed Brown magwell and straight grip screws. I like the Sig grips from my STX so I'm thinking of sanding down & refinishing the grips without logo.

Gonna run some rounds this weekend and tear apart for inspection. Really happy with the look so far but I have 2 issues.

The magwell has .029" between the magwell and bottom of frame. Seated well with no fitting and the MSH pin pushes in pretty easy so I assume it is set in place. Is there anything I can do about this. No real biggie, but I am unhappy with the apparent line between the well and grips.

I was unsure of length at first, but I am really happy with the medium HDC trigger. Unfortunately, it has a very strong 1/8" of creep. Any way to take up the creep?

And for my next wants that I plan to do myself. A Baer style high cut. With no radius planned, A flat file and emery cloth is all I need? Not sure where to make my first swipe with a file. Unsure of strap treatment at this time, so I just plan on blending best I can.

Second is those god awful FCS. I want to put a highpower cut on the slide bad... but the serrations seem pretty deep. They look to be around .027" deep. I'm unsure if I can take that much material off from the front of the slide. Again, if possible, A file and emery cloth? I have no surface grinder at my convenience.

I appreciate any advice from the more experienced... first time for me altering my 1911's myself.

knedrgr · Dec 4, 2013

Magwell - since the funnel can be remove from the MSH, it can be remove and have the bottom of the MSH filed down to take off the gap area.

Trigger - file a vertical tab at the front of tr trigger bow, and use that tab to take up the trigger slack.

Wes28376 · Dec 4, 2013

I've found that those Armscor frames aren't to spec. When I fit a magwell to mine there was no gap at the rear and then it got progressively wider towards the front of the gun. I'm not sure if filing the MSH would fix your issue. You have two options.

1. Use this method: http://www.blindhogg.com/gunsmith/magwell.html

2. Have a smith add some material and refit the magwell. This is the better option but how much do you want to spend on this gun.

230gr · Dec 5, 2013

Just reading this with a critical eye and I have no idea your skills and abilities but when some one talks about files, emery cloth, mentions a surface grinder...god I hope you know what you're doing. The work you talk about is IMVHO the work of a pro using a mill, etc.., I think you're dancing with notion of ruining a frame and slide I am afraid. I love the can do attitude, we share that, hope you know what you're doing...

ken_mays · Dec 13, 2013

On the frontstrap high cut, you can get by with a couple of chainsaw files, a 4" mill file and some 150 grit emery cloth. I find that one of my most-used files is a small half-round needle file, which can be used to smooth out high spots on a radiused area.

For the trigger: a certain amount of pre-travel (a.k.a takeup, a.k.a slack) is necessary to prevent trigger bounce. Don't take it all out. You can cut a tab out of the front of the trigger bow as mentioned above, or you can drop a bead or two of solder on the front of the trigger bow and then file it down to where you want it.

TimMTP · Dec 14, 2013

Are you talking creep or pre-travel? Did you prep the ignition kit before you installed it or just drop it in? Did you check for hammer follow and other safety checks after you installed them?

Fit some new parts... need advice on fine tunning and file work

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