I had use TW-25B, now use Super Lube Multi purpose synthetic grease, why I use it’s heavy duty, dielectric, food grade and clean. In my opinion.

 

I used to use TW-25B. I stopped because I kept finding it dried up in my guns that hadn't been out in several months. I have tried Wilson's grease. It is more of a uber thick liquid than a grease like the TW-25B. Think Wilson's Universal mixed with syrup. I did not bother trying any other greases and now use Wilson's Universal or lite Ultima-Lube.

 

used to use TW-25B. I stopped because I kept finding it dried up in my guns

Same for me. I switched to slip 2000 EWG grease.

 

Lucas Marine grease for increased hydrophobic and anti-rust properties.

 

I use Trident from Rob, works great and stays where it's applied.

Schauland Performance Trident Ceramic Infused Lubricant

Trident Ceramic Infused Lubricant The base is a full synthetic oil made from 100% synthetic stocks and the ceramic additive was developed in Germany. Each bottle is handcrafted to deliver an absolutely precise mix of both ingredients. 1 oz

www.schaulandperformance.com

 

Ditto, I won't use grease on any firearm dating back to the 70s when people used to gease M1s and M14s. Always noted how much cr*p the grease collected in the high desert. On a 1911 firm believer in Trident since Rob let me try some and Nitride safe!

 

I stopped using TW-25B after I left my gun (a Sig 9mm) in my car console once overnight in subzero weather, took it in the next morning and discovered the grease had completely solidified. After discovering Trident, for occasions when I might need something a little thicker, I use Gun Butter. Besides, the more you think about it, grease just becomes a lapping compound once you start getting into the hundreds of rounds fired. Screw that.

 

Really? I guess I better check mine. I am nowhere near subzero conditions but I do have some in the safe untouched for about 3 years. I use TW-25B and MC2500 on all my firearms with the exception of NHC that had a warning about the finish and only using the provided Gibbs and gun butter but everything else gets Mil-Comm. Am I missing something? why are most shooters turning away from Mil-Comm?

 

Brian Enos Slide Glide Lite.

 

I havent used grease in ages. I use Weapon Shield lubricant now. Lucas also has a nice product.

 

I use oil.

 

Good replies and suggestions ... I believe the key with any grease on slides , etc. where there is metal to metal contact movement it is wise to clean the grease out and re-lube before it turns into a lapping compound .

 

I think I have slip 2000. But I found a bottle of some Lucas stuff with a needle type applicator that really works well,so ill use up the Lucas then transfer some slip into the nifty little bottle.

 

I changed from TW-25 to Lucas gun grease and oil and I’m more than satisfied with the results. Grease if it slides, oil where it pivots.

 

Grease was designed to be used between two load bearing surfaces. 1911 slide surfaces really have no load on them at all. They pretty much slide under their own weight, which ain't much. That said, I do thicken synthetic ATF very slightly with synthetic grease. Very, very, slightly.

 

I use a mixture of Slip 2000 EWL with some tungsten disulfide mixed in. The oil carries the tungsten which gets burnished into the metal surfaces. Reduces friction like crazy!!!! Brought the trigger on one of my rifles down from over 5 lbs to just over 2 lbs. That 5 lb reading was using solely the EWL. For firearms that recommend not using oils (trigger pack on an AUG fur example), and running them dry, I mix Tungsten disulfide with rubbing alcohol (as the carrier). Apply the slurry, and work the action. The alcohol will evaporate shortly leaving the tungsten between the moving surfaces.

 

I use a mixture of Slip 2000 EWL with some tungsten disulfide mixed in. The oil carries the tungsten which gets burnished into the metal surfaces. Reduces friction like crazy!!!! Brought the trigger on one of my rifles down from over 5 lbs to just over 2 lbs. That 5 lb reading was using solely the EWL.

That is some kind of lubricant if it can by itself bring down the trigger weight from 5 lbs to 2 lbs.

 

I remember reading something from Ken Hackathon a while ago. When asked what lube he used, he said he uses whatever oil is given away free at various shows and matches, but used Lubriplate mil-spec grease for all the places that call for grease.

 

I remember reading something from Ken Hackathon a while ago. When asked what lube he used, he said he uses whatever oil is given away free at various shows and matches, but used Lubriplate mil-spec grease for all the places that call for grease.

 

Wilson Combat Ultima Lube grease works very well. So does Slide Glide, Gun Butter, Trigger Butter and Brownells Action Lube Plus.

I use the Brownells on the tip of the disconnector and the bearing points on the grip and thumb safeties. Trigger Butter is great on the trigger bows...I use Wilson Combat Ultima Lube, Gun Butter and Slide Glide interchangeably on the slide rails...haven't decided which is best but am leaning towards Trigger Butter this far.

Maybe what I do is unnecessary...one lube could likely do it all...but it's my OCD at work...I'm the same with how I maintain my car.

 

I would merely posit this: Uncle uses TW-25B on military weapons that have very high cyclic rates of fire, and might run through a few thousand rounds in a session - M134 Minigun, M3P .50 Anti-Aircraft MG, and etc. So this 'oh, it turns to lapping compound after a couple of hundred rounds' stuff strikes me as being seriously overstated. It seems like the previously mentioned weapons would be totally worn out after 3-4 range sessions, if such were the case.

 

Rifle came with a trigger pull in the 8lb+ range. Addition of a Ratworx sear and ARID trigger and safety brought the pull down to just over 5lbs. Using the lube (Tungsten disulfide WS2 mixed in alcohol to make a slurry), applied to all the moving parts on the trigger pack and linkage brought the trigger pull down to a low of around 2.75lbs, to about 3.5lbs depending upon where the digital trigger gauge's rubber bushing was placed on the flat-faced trigger. I'm not selling anything...I have nothing to gain by giving false numbers. For other firearms that are not almost all polymer, I mix the Tungsten disulfide WS2 into some Slip 2000 EWL. There's a formula I followed to give me the proper ratio of oil to WS2. It is recommended to use a 14wt% mix. I mixed it to just under 12%wt which is a little light but I needed to have the mix fit into my needle oiler. I placed a stainless steel nut into the bottle to use as a shaker to mix everything up before use, as the WS2 will fall out of suspension while sitting in the bottle. 2g of WS2 in 15g of Slip 2000 EWL. 2 / (2+15) x 100 = 11.76wt%

 

General lube questions are ridiculous. There’s a big difference between a gun you carry every day and a gun you’re going to put in a safe for an extended period of time. I generally don’t use grease for anything and if I did I’d thin it with oil. Clean them, lube them, and shoot them. A gun that doesn’t get shot is a whole other ball of wax. Clean them, wipe them down with a preventative, use a vapor bag or some other form of corrosion protection, monitor humidity, and rotate them in the safe.
Best practice is to shoot them as often as you can.

 

For grease when applicable, I use that Geiselle purplish grease which works well on my ARs. I dont use grease on 1911s only P series legacy Sig rails....

No issues with Slip2000 either

 

Why are they among the worst? What info do you have on this?

I've been using Slip 2000 EWL for about 20 years...

It has about the same lubricity as water and nearly no corrosion protection. It’s literally one of the worst lubes you can buy, and it’s really just about good enough.

The grease and EWL 30 is just their oil with a thickener in it that separates. It’s a horrible product.

 

It has about the same lubricity as water and nearly no corrosion protection. It’s literally one of the worst lubes you can buy, and it’s really just about good enough.

That hasn't been the case for me. I have started using Wilson Ultima Lube II Lite on my 1911's and 2011's, though, only because I have a few bottles of it from buying Wilson handguns.

 

I never tried the Mil-Comm TW-25B grease, after reading gun forum posts from people saying the product had separated in the tube. I decided I would never put something like that in my firearms, if it can fail before it even makes it out of the tube.
I agree that the Slip 2000 product is heavy on the marketing hype. I found Wilson gun oil measurably better at reducing friction. The thickest lube I would use on a firearm would be the Wilson grease, which seems more like a thick oil to me… it is a mixture of 35% Lucas gun oil and 65% Lucas assembly lube (according to the Wilson website).

 

I used to use mobile synthetic grease, now us mobile synthetic 5w-40 , oil

 

Years ago I used TW-25B as it came with all my Sig's. I also experienced issues with it, to include separating over time as well as hardening up. I then stopped using that, and switched over to Slide Glide for years. Used (still do really) that on all my metal framed pistols, to include P series Sig's, 92 series, and my 1911's. Always used gun oil on Glock's, SP2022's, P365's, and HK's. I just recently bought a bottle of Wilson Combat grease, which is a very thin grease....more of a thick oil really. I tested that out on my new TRP and it seems to work fine. A little thin compared to what I'm used to, but it should be fine.

I'm almost out of my tub of Slide Glide, so I may be switching over to the WC grease full time in a few months.

 

I have a tub of Lubriplate sfl-0 which I think is a pretty thin grease (NGL#0). It is still solid and does not pour like a liquid. Works just fine on my Ruger 1911s. Didn't know grease was passe. I thought it was supposed to be better as it doesn't run off like oil.

Recently got a Dan Wesson Razorback and lubed it for the first range session. They recommend against grease but they also recommend against light oils too. Only had on hand light oil and the grease so I lubed the slide rails and barrel hood with the lubriplate. Racked the slide 10 or so times so thought I was good to go. At the range the slide locked to the rear after 6 rounds. Had to use a soft impact tool (palm of my hand) to free it up. 2 rounds later and it locked up just out of battery and I could not budge it so called it a day. Was able to free it up at home with the same soft impact tool but it took some work. Wiped the rails down and applied a light oil.

The recommended oil FP10 then arrived so before the 2nd trip I applied that. On the second trip I was able to get through a box of 50 without problem. Well a few FTF but it is breaking the gun in. Lesson for me is use what the manufacturer recommends or something similar. More generally if the slide to frame fit is tight a grease may cause you some problems. I still intend to use the Lubriplate on the other guns that don't have issues.