Whoa!!! Drop the dremel and step away from the bench!!!
I am absolutely no gunsmith and allot of experts on this forum and they'll be along shortly.
An option is to check Novak's website... he has the Answer and removes/replaces the grip safety completely. Cheers and all the best 👍

Novaks Inc

Novak's Custom Handgun Website Main Page

www.novaksinc.com

 

Whoa!!! Drop the dremel and step away from the bench!!!
I am absolutely no gunsmith and allot of experts on this forum and they'll be along shortly.
An option is to check Novak's website... he has the Answer and removes/replaces the grip safety completely. Cheers and all the best 👍

Novaks Inc

Novak's Custom Handgun Website Main Page

www.novaksinc.com

"the Answer" is a spendy proposition, but works. I have it on two guns. Installation of that part is $450, for those wondering.
I found trimming the tab off the grip safety to be mush easier than pinning it. It is also easier to swap in another safety than to remove the pin (assuming you use the pin-in-the-mainspring-housing method).
The benefit of "the Answer" from Novak is that it simplifies the whole affair, and streamlines the back of the pistol. The drawback is that you are limited to their backstrap treatment. (No arched, serrated, golf balled, smiley-faced, whatever finishes on the back of the mainspring housing) .
As for the certain "DO NOT DO IT YOU WILL GO DIRECTLY TO PRISON FOR LIFE IF YOU EVER SHOOT YOUR GUN" people, who are sure to show up, just ask yourself if a HiPower is unsafe, or a Wilson EDC, or a CZ75, or a Sig 210, or a.....

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I have an officer frame and I’m using a 1-piece magwell… in this instance, “The Answer” is wrong.

 

"the Answer" is a spendy proposition, but works. I have it on two guns. Installation of that part is $450, for those wondering.
I found trimming the tab off the grip safety to be mush easier than pinning it. It is also easier to swap in another safety than to remove the pin (assuming you use the pin-in-the-mainspring-housing method).
The benefit of "the Answer" from Novak is that it simplifies the whole affair, and streamlines the back of the pistol. The drawback is that you are limited to their backstrap treatment. (No arched, serrated, golf balled, smiley-faced, whatever finishes on the back of the mainspring housing) .
As for the certain "DO NOT DO IT YOU WILL GO DIRECTLY TO PRISON FOR LIFE IF YOU EVER SHOOT YOUR GUN" people, who are sure to show up, just ask yourself if a HiPower is unsafe, or a Wilson EDC, or a CZ75, or a Sig 210, or a.....

 

"the Answer" is a spendy proposition, but works. I have it on two guns. Installation of that part is $450, for those wondering.
I found trimming the tab off the grip safety to be mush easier than pinning it. It is also easier to swap in another safety than to remove the pin (assuming you use the pin-in-the-mainspring-housing method).
The benefit of "the Answer" from Novak is that it simplifies the whole affair, and streamlines the back of the pistol. The drawback is that you are limited to their backstrap treatment. (No arched, serrated, golf balled, smiley-faced, whatever finishes on the back of the mainspring housing) .
As for the certain "DO NOT DO IT YOU WILL GO DIRECTLY TO PRISON FOR LIFE IF YOU EVER SHOOT YOUR GUN" people, who are sure to show up, just ask yourself if a HiPower is unsafe, or a Wilson EDC, or a CZ75, or a Sig 210, or a.....

Makes total sense 👍
How about a tangent, combine Novak's Answer with a Chen MSH magwell...!?!?!

Get to work!

 

That will not be possible. “The Answer” replaces the whole lot. Chen’s excellent magazine well INCLUDES the mainspring housing.
you would have to get a magazine well that attaches to the bottom of the frame using a different method. There are some weld-on ones, and I have seen them that attach using ears that slip over the bottom grip screw bushings.

 

 

 

What I have done on a few pistols in the past, mainly just range it models is this.

I used a small piece of a Wilson shock buffer and trimmed it down to a horseshoe shape. This was inserted between the group safety, and the main spring housing. It was snug enough to lock the grip safety in a depressed position, while not modifying the pistol in any way, shape or form. It was also completely reversible simply by removing the main spring housing pin, and removing the piece of polymer buffer.

 

great improv to fix that gun--I am very impressed

due to a disabled shooting hand, there are times I cannot depress the grip safety with a glove on. this sure makes sense as a fix for me--thanks

 

I have seen this also, but with a slice of fuel line. Basically the same concept.

 

To answer your question, no it's not required for the 3rd leaf to operate correctly. I prefer to dress the bottom of the GS lug to disengage very early, that way it still remains functional but no problems with deactivating it. I have to do this on all my 19-2011's.

 

I had one like that, it shot normally. I put a functional grip safety back on it though, IDPA didn't like neutered safeties.

 

How is this different than a HP? Ive not disabled any grip safety and likely wont but I dont see the issue.
Gun will function fine. OP says on cco, clearly a carry piece. Cant recommend removing any oem safety system on anything but perhaps a range gun.

Not sure novaks sells the answer except on full builds. At one time a solid no

 

On my current CCO build, I'm wanting to do the grip safety pinned (ie: disabled)... when I do this, any issues with cutting the blocking tab off altogether?

a) it suits my OCD to remove this vestigial appendage from the now not-grip-safety.
b) without a blocking tab the beavertail can be removed from the frame once you pop out the single-sided thumb safety without having to pull the off MSH & grips too.

My prime concern is does the sear spring require the grip safety tab there to press on the third leg? I'm thinking the MSH should adequately be securing the sear spring, no?

Back in my competition days, I cut the 'vestigial appendage' off the GSs of all my competition pistols. Worked great.

Still have all the body parts I was born with too. Just because some clown can't figure out how to draw/handle a pistol doesn't mean I can't.

 

I really don’t see why people care about 1911 grip safeties with people running around with 2-3LB triggered CZs or EDCX9… or guns with no administrative safeties at all like Glocks.

 

Pin the MSH
IT takes maybe 10 minutes
1/16 drill bit and a 1/16 pin
then trim it to length
If you sell it, you can remove pin and gun is restored to original with GS working.

Only gun that has working GS is the one I shoot in IDPA.

 

This is what I would do, unless you are just kind of slapping this gun together and aren’t going to have hours into a perfect beavertail blend. If you go to sell it, most buyers would want a working safety.

If this is a “forever” gun you never intend to sell, I would still do this but blend the safety as pinned, remove the memory bump and try to get as close to the Answer as I could.