I bought a Colt delta elite slide on ebay, saw it a few minutes before the auction ended, still glad I bought it but it has a crack, from someone trying to tighten slideto frame fit (too thick for that)
Couple pics.
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The crack is about 1/2" long, tight enough that it doesn't show light unless pried up with a fingernail. Nothing is missing.
I've come up with 3 ways to fix it.
1 muggy weld solder paste 80,000psi shear strength, melting point 1050. Special formulated for stainless. Supposedly as strong as a mig weld on stainless to stainless joints.
$56 for an ounce
http://muggyweld.com/stainless
Video ---
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...DIIQtwIIHzAC&usg=AFQjCNGacX952GWYiskw9l0OQjHvUDzEEg&sig2=WOpWfQ6LmlLfnt4WjTcxsQ
To use the ssq6, I'm planning on using a very small pinpoint oxy/propane torch, and heatsink the rest of the slide as best I can.
Clamp it up, torch it, then clean it up with cratex on a Foredom shaft.
Before starting that, I wiould drill a small 1/16" hole at the end of the crack, to keep it from running the length of it.
The second method. This one was suggested by a smith on calguns, ..
Cut a slot where the crack is, with a reinforced cutoff wheel or something, then have it TIG welded, then re machine it. Waiting on a quote for the price of the weld, someone else paid 20 (just for the weld, the prep and cleanup not included)
It's a shame, a fee years ago I made extra money tig welding heat exchangers, I got pretty good at it. The business closed unfortunately or I could have stopped by there and lay in a bead. My only welding equipment is a stick welder, I'm not good enough with it to do this repair. Last time I tried to weld something onto a barrel, basically made it into a puddle.
3rd method
Drill pinhole to stop crack from running, Flux it, then use regular hard 56%silver solder /(1350 farenheigt melt)
4th method.
Cut it off and ignore it.
5th method
Drill hole ,
Use easy 5% solder paste 500 degree farenheigt (shear 20,000, zamak 3 shears at 30,000, walther and highpoint make slides from that). Already have it, don't have to worry about heat messing up the slide.
6th method (hillbilly ghetto)
Drill relief.
jb weld. (6000 psi shear)
Honestly, with where the crack is, I think that would be enough.
NOTE
I'm only going to be shooting 9mm from this slide, not the 10mm hot loads it's designed for. It's very heavy duty.
No need for negativity, or to tell me bin it , and move on, I know I can go buy a para ordnance 9mm slide from Sarco for 100, I enjoy the challenge. Thanks.
Couple pics.
The crack is about 1/2" long, tight enough that it doesn't show light unless pried up with a fingernail. Nothing is missing.
I've come up with 3 ways to fix it.
1 muggy weld solder paste 80,000psi shear strength, melting point 1050. Special formulated for stainless. Supposedly as strong as a mig weld on stainless to stainless joints.
$56 for an ounce
http://muggyweld.com/stainless
Video ---
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...DIIQtwIIHzAC&usg=AFQjCNGacX952GWYiskw9l0OQjHvUDzEEg&sig2=WOpWfQ6LmlLfnt4WjTcxsQ
To use the ssq6, I'm planning on using a very small pinpoint oxy/propane torch, and heatsink the rest of the slide as best I can.
Clamp it up, torch it, then clean it up with cratex on a Foredom shaft.
Before starting that, I wiould drill a small 1/16" hole at the end of the crack, to keep it from running the length of it.
The second method. This one was suggested by a smith on calguns, ..
Cut a slot where the crack is, with a reinforced cutoff wheel or something, then have it TIG welded, then re machine it. Waiting on a quote for the price of the weld, someone else paid 20 (just for the weld, the prep and cleanup not included)
It's a shame, a fee years ago I made extra money tig welding heat exchangers, I got pretty good at it. The business closed unfortunately or I could have stopped by there and lay in a bead. My only welding equipment is a stick welder, I'm not good enough with it to do this repair. Last time I tried to weld something onto a barrel, basically made it into a puddle.
3rd method
Drill pinhole to stop crack from running, Flux it, then use regular hard 56%silver solder /(1350 farenheigt melt)
4th method.
Cut it off and ignore it.
5th method
Drill hole ,
Use easy 5% solder paste 500 degree farenheigt (shear 20,000, zamak 3 shears at 30,000, walther and highpoint make slides from that). Already have it, don't have to worry about heat messing up the slide.
6th method (hillbilly ghetto)
Drill relief.
jb weld. (6000 psi shear)
Honestly, with where the crack is, I think that would be enough.
NOTE
I'm only going to be shooting 9mm from this slide, not the 10mm hot loads it's designed for. It's very heavy duty.
No need for negativity, or to tell me bin it , and move on, I know I can go buy a para ordnance 9mm slide from Sarco for 100, I enjoy the challenge. Thanks.
