Crying Big TIRs
The reason this light caught my interest was the optic. Instead of a reflector, the HL 5-X has a huge TIR on the front. TIR is Total Internal Reflection. An alternate way of controlling the beam pattern as opposed to using a mirrored reflector (like Maglights or Surefire).
I really like my pocket lights with TIR lenses. I wanted to see what supersizing one was like. The head feels super solid.

The UI
This is a dead simple light. There are 3 programs to choose from.
High-Strobe-Low (the factory default).
High only.
Low-Med-High (the one I use).
There is no memory. So you always know what’s going to happen.
The switch is a forward clicky. Momentary flashes are easy.
A very quick half press before fully engaging the switch changes the modes (Mode is the tech term for brightness or alternate light actions).
A full click always turns the light on. A second full click always turns the light off.

Swapping between programs takes 9 fast clicks and a hold. It is unlikely that a program will get switched by accident.
Clearly the UI is designed for those who the light is a tool. Watching cop TV I see lots of clicking going on. Even with just limited choices they often end up in strobe mode when they don’t want it. The typical advanced light interface would end up in Never-Never Land if used this way.

The High, Strobe, Low makes a lot of sense for those who need such.
It could easily be renamed:
High – Where are you?
Strobe – Oncoming traffic don’t hit me!
Low – I’m searching your car where’s the dope?

I see in the instructions not to store or heat above 212F (!). I wonder if they had a problem with EMS types boiling their lights to sanitize them?
Some may lament the absence of an end cap switch. This lights predecessor the HL 4 has one. Some users have been fitting the HL 4 end cap (For that thumb action goodness).
I find end switches are less useful as the light gets longer and heavier. This one is about at the limit.
I find the light too long and head heavy to hold in the approved tactical cigar pose. Thumb on the tail cap, body between the first and middle fingers.

Light in hand

I hold the light with the head cupped in my hand and the switch falls under my finger. The traditional rest on the shoulder batter-up pose.

Runtime
On high using Samsung 30Q cells.
I decided that the max output is about 3200 Lumens. So that’s how I scaled the chart.
Please note that the lumens listed are for entertainment purposes only (Jeffrey Lumens).
Any relation to real lumens living or dead is purely coincidental.

The first 10 Minutes. No cooling.

The thermal stepdown starts at the 1 minute mark and slopes down to 5.5 minutes where it flattens out around 1850 Lumens.

Full Runtime. No cooling

At about 14 minutes the first plateau slowly drops and at about 18 minutes flattens out at about 1500 Lumens.
The light maintains this brightness until about 1Hr. 17Min. Then there is some chatter.
Is the driver trying to maintain the brightness and the batteries not quite making the grade?
Around 1Hr. 22Min. the batteries are getting tired and the light ramps down to a very low level of about 145 Lumens.
I switched it off just long enough to try to step it up to high again. It briefly jumped to 600 Lumens then dropped back to the 145 range.
I stopped the test at 1Hr 34Min. The batteries were at 3.15v.

PWM
Many lights control brightness by using Pulse Wave Modulation. Basically turning the light on and off many times a second. Lights with a slow PWM frequency are very taxing to use. Several makers do use this method to control brightness.

Taking a look at the O-Scope – We see a current controlled light. No PWM.
LOW

There is a DC offset. On low a 500KHz sine wave can be seen. This is an artifact of the driver.

Medium

On Medium the 500KHz wave is starting to flatten out.

High

On High the scope can’t count a Frequency. Pretty close to a straight DC as far as I can tell.

Impressions
The switch takes a long press to engage and click on. It’s flat with the body. The long press should prevent accidental power ups. I wouldn’t trust it in a toolbox with a bunch of other stuff rattling around.
Using the light with heavy winter gloves might prove problematic. It’s also not easy to find the switch if I’m in fumble mode. With heavy gloves in the dark? F’gettaboutit.

The head feels sturdy and (should) take quite a beating before giving up the ghost. I wonder if the guts are potted? That would be a nice touch.

Some lights just feel right. This is one of them. The Convoy L6 and the Sofirn SP70 (both 2× 26650) feel heavy and clunky compared to the Streamlight. This one seems well balanced when carried in the Maglite “El Ka’bong” method.
The rubber coating and the hefty tube gives the impression that this light could take (or deliver) a beating.

As far as weight the SL HL 5-X is at or maybe above the limit of what could be comfortably hung on a duty belt (along with all the other crap). Some other lights for comparison.
0Lb, 4oz – Surefire G2 (2×132, old school incan)
0Lb, 6.7oz – Convoy C8 (1×18650)
0Lb, 11.5oz – WOWTAC A4 (first version) (2×18650)
0Lb, 14oz – Streamlight Stinger DS HPL (3x sub-C NiMH)
1Lb, 3.1oc – Streamlight HL-5× (2×18650)
1Lb, 10.2oz – Convoy L6 (2×26650)
1Lb, 14.5oz – Sofirn SP70 (2×26650)
2Lb, 8.4oz – Maglite (4xD cell, incan (the original El Ka’bong))

The Usual Suspects

Convoy L6, Convoy C8, WOWTAC A4 (V1), Streamlite X-5, Maglite (4xD), Sofirm SP70.

Comparison 2 reflector size

C8, Streamlite X-5, Maglite 4xD, WOWTAC A4, L6, SP70

 

What’s it Look Like
The TIR gives a small/medium-ish sized center spot with moderately defined edges.

Much larger than a C8 with the SST40

The center spot is not as even as the one on my Olight TIR light.

The Olight has a much broader center spot. The spill is fairly even.
At greater distances (and not white wall hunting) things even out more and it’s not as noticeable.

The very center of the spot has a blueish tint – at least to my eyes. I tried to capture this in some photos and it doesn’t show up well.
My Olight with a TIR also shows this blueish spot in the center.

Hulking Out
Around the outside of the center spot I see a greenish tint. Once again kind of disappointing. When photographing the beam, the green meanies really show up compared to other light.
To naked eyeballs, it doesn’t look this green.
The exposure is cranked way high to show the beam character.

Comparison shots
In the shots the Streamlight is on the right.
ThorFire BLF Q8 vs Streamlight

SL BLF SP36 (Samsung LEDs) vs Streamlight

I need to find a good spot for outdoor beam shots to standardize on.

Beam pattern.
The TIR gives a very different pattern as opposed to a conventional mirror reflector light.

Here is a shot of the X-5 and the Sofirm SP70 (a powerful thrower). Notice how the spill from the SP70 is much narrower, but brighter than the X-5.
The X-5 puts out a broader spill. Much better for situational awareness. Just what the light is designed for.

SP70 Beam

X-5 Beam

Lumens
The specs call for low 250 Lumens, Medium 1000 Lumens, and High 3500 Lumens.
I don’t have a calibrated light box, but I do have an uncalibrated box and a ceiling (for bouncing) to compare various lights.

On high, the HL 5-X (3500 Lumens) measures in the box at 3300
The Sophirn SP70 (on 3000 Lumen setting) measures 3030
Using the ceiling bounce and a light meter,
The SP70 (on 3000) Set to 0 on the meter). The HL 5-X is within a flys ass of an f/Stop.
So I wave my magic wand and call it 3200 Lumens and I used this as the max value for the runtime graphs.
On medium (1000 Lumens), The Box reads 910
On Low (250 Lumens), The Box reads 233
So it’s clearly in the ballpark of the factory specs. My measurements could easily be off by a good margin.

When the batteries get low the light just dims and doesn’t seem to have any low voltage protection. I have some crappy cells that I let run to 2.8v. I may run them down further to see if anything happens.

Conclusions
This is one stout feeling light. It is on the heavy side for duty belt carry (says someone who never wears a duty belt). The rubber coating makes for an excellent grip. The coating also makes it harder to clean if something nasty gets on it. The large ID battery tube lets the batteries rattle if the light is shaken hard.

The longer than normal tube requires that conventional length 18650 batteries be used with a spacer of some type. The Streamlite 18650s are longer than normal and work without spacers.

The quality and color of the beam is not up to flashaholic standards (actually it sort of sucks). The target market for this light, I suspect, could care less. I wish there was a way inside to see if an LED swap could improve things.

The simple interface is good for non-flashaholics or those not wanting all the magic modes.
I like the side button (only) control much better than the L6 that uses the side button for modes but must be turned off with the end button. Lights with two switches that can be turned off with both the tail cap and side switch, like the SP70, are much better that the L6 style in my opinion. On a light this size I think the single button is just fine. It’s a shame you can’t lock it out by unscrewing the tail cap.

So who’s it for? It falls into the area between a duty belt light and general purpose/search and rescue light.
For law enforcement, this would be a great light if the weight can be tolerated. A light as a first defense tool is certainly a consideration (as in drop the ticket book, whack ’em with the light, then pull the Taser).

I can see it on the belt of a night watchman type being used on low to light the way between dark areas and on high to peer into those dark corners if something goes bump in the night. The broader light will be an asset in this case.

Any job any Maglite does - this could do better, thinks I. Neighborhood watch on foot or in a car would be right up HL 5s alley (so to speak). For a general use light in harsh conditions I think it fits the bill quite well.

I don’t see a firefighter type using this as the broader hot spot and cooler tint would reflect back at the user in smoky conditions. The same for EMS types who might be searching in rubble post building collapse. A thrower that can peer down crevices would seem the better choice (says someone who has done neither).

Used alone or in combo with a headlamp, it would certainly do for close/medium range search & rescue. It is not too heavy to be carried for extended periods of time. The rubber coating is way nicer to hang onto in cold weather with bare hands.
Something with more throw and runtime like the SP70 would do better for longer range searches.

There are so many choices these days. One can afford to be picky when it comes to choosing a light for any purpose. When I bought it the full asking price was over $100, now it seems that it’s selling in the low $70s and sometimes $50s for the 4×123 version. At 100 bucks, I’d pass unless I had a specific need for a simple UI heavy duty light. Even at $70, I’m not all that impressed. It’s hell for stout and simple to use, but that’s about it.
At $50? I bought another one!

If I knew I was going into some sort of high stress situation. The HL 5-X would be my choice.
It would be a good choice to give to someone emergencies. Stick some protected cells inside and don’t tell them it goes brighter then low.
All the Best,
Jeff

 

Too large for a tactical light

 

Where might one find this community of flash-oholics?

I've got a couple of practical "real world" questions I'd like to get some answers to.

 

Where might one find this community of flash-oholics?

I've got a couple of practical "real world" questions I'd like to get some answers to.

These guys can answer your questions.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forum.php

 

Damn what a review. I’ve never had a charged light that was brighter than battery power though. I got rid of my Olight because of that. Very nice light though.

 

Thank you 340pd.

I'll join that forum to tap into their knowledge. (Trying to get a better understanding of rechargeable battery drainage).

 

Great review!

I enjoyed reading your review and would like to see more.

Thanks!

 

Thanks for the kind words. This Streamlight puts out about 3400 Lumens. The typical “as seen on TV” tactical, Duty, Operator zoomie light typically puts out about 300 Lumens.

The Sofirn I mention in the review can put out 5000. And, if you’ve got the money honey, There are lights that put out way more than that.
The place to drop down a – very well lit – rabbit hole for flashlights is:
http://www.budgetlightforum.com

I post there under the name Jeff51.
This is the most active of the flashlight forums. There you will see posts from a woman with the avatar name Toykeeper.
She writes the software code that many of the most sophisticated flashlights use.
How much code? Like 2500 lines of code!

The BLF members have designed flashlights that manufacturers produce to the recommended specs.
Late last year (after nearly a year of development) the Sofirn BLF LT1 Lantern came to be. This is basically the best battery powered lantern on the planet right now. You can select brightness (naturally), but also the color temperature of the light too. The flow chart for it’s features is rather intimidating...

Manufactures often make special codes available to members for discount buys, or early releases of new products.

There you will also find reviews that actually measure the light output instead to trusting to the manufacturer.
Batteries and chargers are reviewed. Perhaps this is old news to some, but most of the Lithium batteries sold on Amazon and ebay are fakes that claim outrageous capacities. That test to way less than claimed by the sellers.

And as here, there are the characters that make life interesting.
Any questions, please feel free to ask away.
All the Best,
Jeffrey

PS, I’m not sure why some of the images don’t show up. They are hosted in the same place and I added them in using the same forum icon. And they showed up on the preview. Weird.

 

A bit of vocabulary, you will see the term "muggle"
That's the term applied to those who are not yet members of the cult of flashlight enthusiasts.
Cheers.

 

@Jeffery51
The budgetlightforum doesn't seem to be available on TapATalk. However, I can get to it through a browser - just not as convenient for mobile users.

 

Another try to get some of the images to post.
Comparison to other lights

Convoy L6, Convoy C8, WOWTAC A4 (V1), Streamlight, Maglite 4xD, Sofrin SP70

C8, Streamlite, Maglite 4xD, WOWTAC A4, L6, SP70

Still won't work. Yet I can see them in the Edit window.
Too Strange.

 

On Youtube, one of the most prolific flashlight reviewers is Charles Bridgtec:
https://www.youtube.com/c/CharlesBridgTec/videos

Just be aware that this is income for him. He only reviews lights sent him for free.
He always praises every light and they are all always Amazing. So he get a huge number of lights to review.
He only quotes manufacturers figures for output.
But, that being said, you can get a look at how the light is put togeather, it User Interface, and how it performs in a repeated outdoor setting.

Pay more attention to the beam shots and less to his impressions.

The known brands are not being very inovative (except for Fenix). This Streamlite on low is equal to brighter than any Maglite. And there are other companies that have lights that make this one look like a popcorn fart in a hurricane.

Matt, at Adventure Sports:
https://www.youtube.com/c/AdventureSportFlashlights/videos
Likes to review the Big Guns. But sometimes he gets a wild hair and goes someplace like Bass Pro and buys one of every flashlight in stock and does a review.
He also mods flashlights for sale.

And example video, one of the Budgetlightforum designs.

All the Best,
Jeffrey

 

I just ordered that lantern...

 

DK,
Ni-Cads (can) have a very long life. I had a set in an electric screw driver that went 12 years before finally getting to weak to use.

The key to Ni-Cad long life is they like to be used periodically. Taking the voltage fairly low, before charging up. I used the battery down about once a week or two before recharging. It has two cells in series. Eventually one went south.

Most flashlights use cells in series (the Stinger uses 3). So if one cell starts to weaken, eventually the pack will get out of balance and the lesser cell will actually reverse in polarity.
If you catch this fairly quickly, (sometimes) you can isolate the bad cell and use a hobby charger to resurrect it. This is done by charging and discharging the single cell several times.
I’ve done this a few times on a Roomba battery pack a few times before too many Ni-Cads gave up the ghost.
Long term storage on most rechargeable batteries is best done at less than 100% charge.

From: Battery University
https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_store_batteries
For NiCads
“Recommended storage is around 40 percent state-of-charge (SoC). This minimizes age-related capacity loss while keeping the battery operational and allowing for some self-discharge. Nickel-based batteries can be stored in a fully discharged state with no apparent side effect.

Measuring SoC by voltage is difficult on nickel-based batteries. A flat discharge curve, agitation after charge and discharge and temperature affects the voltage. The good news is that the charge level for storage is not critical for this chemistry, so simply apply some charge if the battery is empty and store it in a cool and dry place. With some charge, priming should be quicker than if stored in a totally discharged state.

Nickel-metal-hydride can be stored for 3–5 years. The capacity drop that occurs during storage is partially reversible with priming. Nickel-cadmium stores well. The US Air Force was able to deploy NiCd batteries that had been in storage for 5 years with good recovered capacities after priming. It is believed that priming becomes necessary if the voltage drops below 1V/cell. Primary alkaline and lithium batteries can be stored for up to 10 years with only moderate capacity loss.”

Ni-MH also like to be exercised.
Ni-MH has the same voltage per cell as Ni-Cad.
After all, Volts is Volts. And the light could care less what the chemistry is.

I looked at replacement Stinger packs on Amazon, and it looks like they are compatible.
I also looked at the Streamlite site and they list both batteries as accessories for a single light.

The problem with Amazon purchased batteries is so many of them are fakes. It’s hard to know who is selling an actual Streamlite brand – even if the packaging says Streamlight.
Some of the replacement packs (non-OEM) may work just fine.

I think the Stingers use “Sub-C” Ni-Cads. These can be purchased and used to rebuild the battery pack if you can get it apart without too much damage. But I see some replacement packs are so cheap that this makes little sense unless you like to tinker.

If you post this question in the Budgetlightforum, under batteries:
http://budgetlightforum.com/forum/batteries/rechargeable

And let’em know you are new to all this stuff. I suspect you will get a more complete answer.
Hope this helps,
All the Best,
Jeffrey

 

So if one cell starts to weaken, eventually the pack will get out of balance and the lesser cell will actually reverse in polarity.

I looked at replacement Stinger packs on Amazon, and it looks like they are compatible.
I also looked at the Streamlite site and they list both batteries as accessories for a single light.

Yes, all very helpful - thank you much! Rather than tinker around without really knowing what I was doing, I had already decided to just buy a couple more NiMH battery packs. I had researched a little and had pretty much come to the same conclusion the NiMH batteries wouldn't hurt the Stinger HP. But it's good to get a confirming opinion on the matter! I'll just start using the NiMH battery packs in the Stinger HP too. I'm guessing it's performance won't suffer from this(?).

So far, at least based on my personal experience, the NiMH batteries store long term, better than the NiCd batteries do. (Of course, this is admittedly a very small sample size from which to make such a judgement!).

Thanks again for taking the time to write and post that explanation.
--
The Stingers have been awesome flashlights. But of course, their technology is closing in on being almost a decade old so I'm sure there may be better choices available now.

 

@Jeffery51
I've also got a couple of Streamlight keychain lights; I believe they're called Microstream (or something like that). Gave one to wife and I kept one - they've also got some age on them. They use a single AAA battery and produce 45 lumens. They are also still working great!

I'd like to get something more bright (say, minimum 150 - 350 lumens) and still be a relatively small pocket carry. But my main selection criteria is, I'd like to keep away from more expensive or exotic batteries - I'd like to keep it limited to AA or AAA batteries, ideally.

What would you recommend? Currently considering Streamlight ProTac 2AA or ProTac 1L-1AA. I'm not opposed to considering other brands (IF they'll hold up over the long run).

 

DK,
First on the Stingers, I think you’re fine with your battery choice.
As far as long term storage then use, the Streamlite I reviewed could be populated with a fresh set of quality CR123 batteries and put up on a shelf. I would expect it to work 5 or even 10 years later.

Also note that the HL-5 is brighter on medium than the Stingers are on high. And a new set of batteries is like $10-$12 for a pair of 18650s. These are not really exotic batteries. They are what was found in every laptop made until the slim designs came along. They also power the first models of the TESLAs.
I have laptop pulls that are still going strong left over from the XP erra.

Still, those old stingers were/are a heck of a light quality wise. They were one of the “game changer” lights for duty use.

On to your second question about little lights. The thing with all these lights and especially the little guys is the battery. Alkaline (Alkaleaks), NiMH, and NiCds just don’t have the energy density of the newer chemistry. The old batteries just can’t pack away enough angry pixies inside to make a tiny powerful light.
Pocket lights are so varied, it’s tough to choose something that’s small enough not to be a bother, yet has a useful amount of light.

For me that’s the Nitecore TUBE About the size of a USB flash drive. On high it’s 45 lumens for about 30 minutes. They are around $10 each and Micro-USB rechargeable. Amazing that you can get something that puts out as much light as an old 2xD hot wire bulb maglite that weighs like 4 sticks of gum.

I also sometimes use a shirt pocket (2)xAAA pen light. I think it’s a Thrunite. I use eneloop rechargeable batteries to keep for having Alaklines leak and kill it. It’s quite bright on high.
There are several brands like this in the $20-$30 range.
Single AAA lights, for some reason, have never lighted my fire – so to speak. Though there are several that are high quality and bright for what they are.
Over at the BLF check out the forums for AA, and AAA lights:
http://budgetlightforum.com/forum

Also take a peek over at the BLF in the keychain forum:
http://budgetlightforum.com/forum/flashlights/keychain
And see what those guys are playing with. Single AAA lights are quite popular.

Nitecore is one company that has really been pushing the pocket light category.
I found this video that shows off their latest little light. 180 lumens for 90 minutes, with a short term Turbo of 700 Lumens.

Hope this helps
All the Best,
Jeffrey

 

Found the light I have.
https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Com...a8b1-8bf931f6dfab&pf_rd_r=6YGV7AM5C501HRHP07MA&refRID=6YGV7AM5C501HRHP07MA&th=1

I got the neutral version. Warmer lights have better color recognition than the brighter cooler tints.
This one also seems to be popular, and is a high CRI light. Don’t know if that makes a difference for your use.
https://www.amazon.com/LUMINTOP-Pen...Rendering-Diagnostic-Waterproof/dp/B07C9XP692/ref=psdc_2445457011_t2_B00WWPFWMM

I like the 2xAAA for their size. The 2xAA versions obviously have more battery capacity.
Like all these lights made in China, the QC is hit or miss. I took a look at the Amazon listing for the Streamlites you mentioned, and I see some folks have had problems with the switch. But that wouldn’t stop me from giving one a try. Just play with it a lot inside the 30 day return window.
All the Best,
Jeffrey

 

First, holy crap! What a review. I know more about that light than I do about most things. Thanks, for posting.

Further, I was a cop for a while, mostly on midnights. More than 825 of our 850 square miles of jurisdiction are rural. Some places have miles between houses.

For the most part, these high lumen lights are lost on me. I did a lot of human/tactical tracking. White lights aren’t very good, for this. The best light I had, for this purpose, was my decade old Maglite. It was a 3D, but had a rechargeable cell. The brightness and yellow tint were perfect.

A few years ago, we were issued Streamlight ProTac HL3’s. Mine rode on my duty belt. I really like the light, but the strobe is worthless, to me. I really like the Ten-Tap. I changed all of mine to just be Low then High. “1,000 lumens” is too bright, for most things. It’s too hard on natural night vision. It’s great, for illuminating a pasture or tree line, away from your vehicle.

Prior to getting the Streamlight HL3, I just had my Surefire 6P Original. I bought it in 2004, when it was a premium light. A few years later, when I started in LE, 65 lumens was a lot. Maglites reigned, only a few of the “tactical lights” were around. I’ve been through a few lamps, but this light still works great. By the way, I’ve swam with this light, several times. It works great, under water.

Every duty sidearm I’ve had was equipped with a weapon mounted light. My first sidearm, a Sig P226 DA/SA .40 S&W had a Streamlight M3 on it. When I moved agencies, my well worn, but newly issued to me Gen3 G22 wore a brand new Streamlight M3. When we bought new sidearms, I bought my old Glock and the M3.

The Gen4 G22 replaced the old G22 and weapon mounted lights were upgraded to the Streamlight TLR-1s. I didn’t even know it had a strobe, the first few years-found that on accident. When I was put on disability, thus year, I bought my G22 and TLR-1s.

For our patrol rifles, we started with no light. After a couple of years, we were issued cheap lights that didn’t last long. I was part of the T&E for new rifle lights. We did a blind review. I was the one controlling the lights. The other guys stood by, where they couldn’t see what light I used. We had several lights to test. We tested in various scenarios and environments, for a couple of weeks. Overwhelmingly, lights from 200-350 lumens won. More than that was too bright, at times. Less than that often wasn’t enough to see at our typical rural LE distances. The beam-flood balance was very important.

We went with the Streamlight ProTac Rail Mount 1. I’ve never found another light that did everything as good and failed at nothing. Perfect balance of illumination qualities: brightness and dispersion.

Well, I typed all that and by the time the baby quit crying and I got done, I don’t remember what my point was.

 

The manufacturers' chase for the brightest (most lumens) light seems unending.... to the point of having gotten ridiculous, now.

Several years back, I lived in a house that had typical white painted interior walls. It was at that time I realized you could actually have a light that was too bright. While actually practicing house clearing, I quickly realized my hand-helds with high power/high throw were great for backyard use but not so much for inside the house!

It probably varies by individual but I believe there is an optimum amount of light for a given situation like 'room clearing' in your house. My current house tends to have darker wall colors so I don't get as much reflected light back. But my weapon mounted lights still tend to range from 125 - 300 lumens. So that's the main point I'd make to those making their first selection: consider your planned usage. Especially for weapons mounted lights; more {lumens} is not necessarily better. By all means, if possible, test what works best for you.

 

nikerret and DK,
You are both right in that the lumen race is stupid for inside use. Bounce a 5K lumen light off a wall and give up any hope of seeing anything other than a blue spot for the next 5 mins.
Much better to look for beam quality, color temp, and the best possible user interface.
Outdoors, not counting vehicle searches, more is better (within reason).
A few hundred Lumens is nice to peek at dark areas inside vehicles during the day when the sun is casting dark shadows inside.
Glad you like the review. I'll do some more.
All the Best,
Jeffrey

 

nikerret and DK,
You are both right in that the lumen race is stupid for inside use. Bounce a 5K lumen light off a wall and give up any hope of seeing anything other than a blue spot for the next 5 mins.
Much better to look for beam quality, color temp, and the best possible user interface.
Outdoors, not counting vehicle searches, more is better (within reason).
A few hundred Lumens is nice to peek at dark areas inside vehicles during the day when the sun is casting dark shadows inside.
Glad you like the review. I'll do some more.
All the Best,
Jeffrey

Good post! Especially, the bolded part. When working, I liked to have several different lights. Some were better at one thing, or another.

 

The military uses red light headlamps as well as red handheld flashlights. Although they can vary by design and specific features, the fundamental focus on a red light is the same. There are three reasons why the military uses red light for their flashlights: to preserve and improve night vision, to reduce a person’s light profile, and to send out signals.