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Which .45 ACP ammo

8.8K views 29 replies 22 participants last post by  pistolwretch  
#1 ·
Alright, the 10 day wait is almost over. I am picking up my SA 1911 Loaded Stainless next week. The plan is to take it to the range as soon as I pick it up, put 100 rounds through, then take it home and give it a good cleaning.
I have two question. I know I have to break a new pistol with 300 factory rounds before moving to reloads, correct !
what would be good and affordable factory ammo to use?
What ammo would be excellent for home defense? Price is no object for the HD ammo. I'm also looking for good HD ammo for my 9mm's. I am currently using Remington hollows in me SIGs. I respect all your opinions, so any help would be appreciated. I can't wait to fire off some rounds.
 
#5 ·
Why can’t your shoot reloads in it? I run Hornady 185s or 200s depending on what I can get. I understand the need to run SD ammo through it but not factory ball over reloads. Or are you just looking for SD ammo?

ETA: I hope it runs better than my Springer Loaded. If not, don’t bother, you won’t make it through a mag without three or four FTE/FTFs. Good luck.
 
#8 ·
I broke mine in with WWB and Lawman 230gr that I had laying around. Mostly just because the were "hotter" than my handloads which I load to around 170PF. After 300 rounds or so, it's been all reloads. I've always heard it's recommended to clean a new gun before shooting them but I'm pretty sure Wilson recommends just keeping it lubed and shoot away.
 
#9 ·
Pls don't take this the wrong way, but if you're asking what ammo to use, do you know enough to strip, clean, and most importantly reassemble a 1911? I would suggest starting to develop a relationship w/ your local gun shop. Cleaning my first 1911 took me 45 mins to field strip the gun, 30 minutes to clean it, and almost 2 hours to reassemble the gun (and a lot of curse words). If I couldn't put it back together, I would run down to my local shop. Sooner or later, you're going to need those folks.
 
#10 ·
Clean it first, then shoot it. If you're going to shoot +P ammo in it, put a heavier recoil spring in it. There really is no reason to use self defense ammo to break the pistol in and frankly "break in".g is subjective depending on who built the piston.


I'd strongly suggest learning first before you start making mistakes.
 
#11 ·
There is no need to break in a gun by shooting 300 factory rds before your reloads. Breaking in is mostly a myth, none of my guns have ever been broken in. I just shoot them, and they just shoot. If it doesn't work, it was not built right. I don't shoot reloads normally, but if you trust them then no issues. If you don't trust them then you might want factory ammo so you will have a better idea if it is the gun or your ammo that is making it choke.
 
#16 ·
If I were new to the platform I would follow the manufacturers instructions on "break-in", even though I generally agree that it's not a thing on most(not all) guns. I shoot 230gr. FMJ that I load to 800fps through a brand new gun. I have always had this idea that a few hundred rounds of jacketed bullets down a brand new barrel could potentially "smooth" any burrs before shooting cast bullets. I don't know if it's just a thing I created in my own mind or if I actually do smooth any rough spots, but it makes me feel better going in and that alone has value to me.
 
#18 ·
Alright, the 10 day wait is almost over. I am picking up my SA 1911 Loaded Stainless next week. The plan is to take it to the range as soon as I pick it up, put 100 rounds through, then take it home and give it a good cleaning.
I have two question. I know I have to break a new pistol with 300 factory rounds before moving to reloads, correct !
what would be good and affordable factory ammo to use?
What ammo would be excellent for home defense? Price is no object for the HD ammo. I'm also looking for good HD ammo for my 9mm's. I am currently using Remington hollows in me SIGs. I respect all your opinions, so any help would be appreciated. I can't wait to fire off some rounds.
every 1911 that i have, when i took it home from the sale, i'd field strip it, clean and lube it.

then a trip to the range and put anywhere from 50 to 100 rds of factory ammo.

after that..??

they ALL get fed store brand DIRTY reloaded ammo, and "maybe a box of factory new ammo" once in a while.

now, this is from my low end, Tisas, up to my 2 high dollars, Dan Wessons
 
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#19 ·
To range shoot and break it in almost any main brand 45acp FMJ ammo will do.

For defense, 45acp, HST 230 works well. I have fired +P out of mine, was not fun, took longer for follow-up shots. You really need to find out what is most accurate out of your pistol. I tried several brands, so were ok others were better but HST worked the best and was most accurate.
 
#20 ·
I have always wondered how a 1911 knows the difference between reloads and factory ammo?? All mine have always had a steady diet of reloads from day one . As far as cleaning them before the first firing I clean all mine before hand. Sometimes there is some stuff in there that doesn’t belong.
 
#21 ·
For any new pistol, I field strip it, inspect it, clean it, and lube it with M-Pro 7 products.

For a new .45 ACP 1911 destined for carry, I usually put around 300 Winchester White Box 230 grain FMJ rounds through it to check for infant mortality. I then put a box or two of different manufacturer's ammo in different grains to check for ammo sensitivity. I usually have around 500 rounds through it before it is acceptable to me for carry duty.

I prefer Winchester PDX1 or now Defender .45 ACP 230 grain JHP for self-defense carry. It is basically Black Tallon without the black.

I prefer Buffalo Bore or Underwood 180 grain JHP for my 10mm 1911s.
 
#25 ·
For what it's worth (you are paying nothing and getting every penny's worth!), I always strip and clean every gun I get. Then I lube it and rack the slide a few dozen/100 times, or more. Why? First I like to know it is clean and properly lubed, but that is just me. 2nd, I like to feel how the slide feels and functions, which is basically what the break-in is all about for most handguns, just waring off the rough edges and getting everything worn in. Three I just like handling/playing with my new toy and getting to know how it feels, if it has hitches and if it has any hang-ups I should know about. Then I take it to the range and shoot MY handloads through it. The "factory only" BS is so the factory/smith can pawn junk off and then claim you violated the warranty with handloads so they don't have to fix the junk guns that they crank out that don't work, and then blame you when they don't! F THAT!

ANY gun that needs a few hundred (or 1000, and Les is just down the road from me) break-in is NOT built right! If it needs that sort of "break-in" it goes back to the factory (or smith) and told to fix it or refund my money! Would you buy a car that you can only drive 10 miles per hour for the first 1500 miles? No? Then why buy a gun that does? If a gun "needs" 1500 rds to "break it in", it wasn't built right and needs a good deburring and smoothing up! That is what I paid good money for from the maker, not to enrich the ammo companies! And yes, if you have looked at a few of the guns coming out of Les's shop, you would understand why they needed 1,500 to smooth them up!

I've always thought that any gunsmithing/gun shop should have a "slide pushing" machine, a rod on an off set wheel that pushes the slide back and forth 60 times a minute, and every gun that is put out for sale, or comes in for repair (jamming) goes on the "racker" for an hour or so. 99% of the problems mysteriously disappear and everyone is happy! It would surely beat shooting 2500 rds through a poorly (overly tight jamamatic) fitted handgun!
 
#30 ·
I just bought somma this: